Process of making shoes.



A. H. PRENZEL. PROCESS OF MAKINQ SHOES. APPLICATION FILED OCT. 12, 1912.

Pawn-imam 20, 1915.

as rem nisce-"o ADAM. E. EHENZEL, O35 HALIFAX, PENNSYLVANIA, AEESEGNOB TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, GE PATERSON, NEW JEQVSEY, A CORPOBATIGN OF" NEW JERSEY.

FEWCESS 0F MAKXNG SHOES.

Specification of Letters Eatent.

Patented July so, 1915.

To all whom it may; concern:

Be it known that 1, Anna: in. l?nnNznL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Halifax, in the county of Dauphin and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain Improvements in Processes of Making a single sole and particularly in making stitch-down shoes by the improved process described in my copending application So rial No. 725,476, filed Oct. 12, 1912, which involves lasting the upper and securing 1t in .lasted position by staples driven through the upper into the sole, 1 have found it advantageous to provide the sole with a shoulder to support the upper upon the inside of the shoe.

An object of this invention, therefore, is a process of making a shouldered sole, particularly adapted for use in stitch-down shoes, which will permit the production or" such a sole, having the shoulder accurately positioned with respect to the edge of the sole, with a minimum waste of material.

Another object of the invention is so to form the shouldered sole that the material removed in the shouldering process may be utilized as a welt for the shoe of which the sole is to form a part.

Other objects and novel features of the invention will appear from the following description and claims when read in connection with the accompanying drawings.

In the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1 is a perspective view-of a sole prepared by cementing together two like sole blanks; ig. 2 is an exploded view showing the various parts which are separated from this sole in the step or steps of preparing a shouldered sole for a stitch-down shoe; Fig. 3 is a sectional detail showing the locations of these parts with respect to each other and the sole,.and Fig. 4 is a perspective view of .a shoe in which the sole-and welt prepared by this process have been utilized.

tion, 1 may start either with. a solidsole of a thickness sufficient to provide the desired edge after the shouldering operation, or I may cement together two like sole blanks, as 7 shown in Fig. 1. The more convenient prac- 8:6 tice is to build up the sole to the desired thickness by cementing together two like sole blanks. This procedure also facilitates the performance. of the succeeding operations. When a sole made of two like sole blanks is employed, the upper blank 2 is preferably of a thickness equal to the height of the desired shoulder to be formed upon the completed sole, while the lower blank 4 is of the desired thickness of exposed sole '7 edge. In cementing the blanks together, care is preferably taken not to extend the cement too near the edge of the blanks, since the operation of removing the welt to form the shoulder is facilitated if the welt the upper blank at the, desired distance from the margin of lillepSOle at which the 30 shoulder is to be located, this-cut being formed continuously about the sole. Preferably the cut is inclined somewhat to the upper face of the blank 2 so thatthe shoulder will be out under somewhat in the fin ished sole. This facilitates securing atight joint in the shoe. In order that the strip' formed by the cut 6 may be utilized in mak: ing a welt and in order to facilitate the removal of this strip, a second cut 8 isalso made through the'upper blank 2, preferably simultaneously with the first cut. The-distance between thecuts 6 and 8 is sufficient to provide for the accommodation of the up or and the lining of a shoe of which the sole and welt are to form a part. The strip 9 between the cuts 6 and 8 is waste material. The welt 10 which is left by the cutting operations already described is continuous and is of a size exactly to fit theshoe of 9 which the shouldered sole is to form a part.

In making this shoe, it is preferable, in, order that-the edge of thesole may receive a proper finish, to cut the upper and lining somewhat back from the edge. Inbr dr that the welt when placed upon'thoub adjacent to its outer edge may contact with the upper face of the sole while the portion of the face adjacent to its inner edge rests upon the trimmed-back margin otthe upper. To provide a welt of the desired crosssection a third cut 12 is made in the blank 2- of the sole, this out being so inclined to the upper face of this blank that a skiving 1% is removed which is thicker upon its inner edge than upon its outer edge, thereby leaving a welt 10 of ther esired cross-section.

It will be understood that theshoe is pretcrably made by the process of my co-pending application in so far as lasting the upper and securing it in lasted position is concerned, the upper being secured to the sole during the lasting operation preferably by staples inserted through the upper into the solo in the angle between the shoulder and the sole margin.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is::

'1. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in separating from a sole a continuous strip shaped in crosssecti-on to leave a shoulder upon said sole substantially flush with which the sole is adapted to be used, placing said sole and an upper upon the last, turning out the lower margin of the upper, forming a continuous, unbroken welt from said strip, placing said welt upon said margin and uniting the welt, upper and sole with stitches.

2. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in separating from a sole a continuous strip of a crosssection which will leave a shoulder upon said sole substantially flush with the edge of the last with which the sole is adapted to be used, removing from the inner edge of said strip a portion oi substantially the thickness of the shoe upper and lining, placing said sole and an upper upon the last, turning out the upper upon the projecting margin of the sole, placing said strip upon said margin and uniting the strip, upper and sole.

3. That improvement in theart of making shoes which consists in separating from a sole a continuous strip oi? a cross-section which will leave a shoulder upon said sole the sho'e upper and 'of substantially with the edge of the last 7 with the edge of ing it to the sole,

substantially flush with the edge of the last with which the sole is adapted to be used, removing from the inner edge of said strip a pouion of substantially the thickness of lining, removing from one face of said strip another portion shaped to leave said strip thicker upon its-outside than upon its inside, placing said sole and an upper upon the last, turning out the lower margin of said upper and securing it to the sole, trimming said margin back from the edge of the sole, placing said strip upon said margin and then uniting the strip,

uppe' and sole.

4. That improvement in the art of preparing soles for use in making stitcl'i-down shoes which consists in cementing together two likesole blanks so that the edges are flush, removing from one blank a continuous marginal strip of a width to, leave the edge of said blank substantially flush with the. edge of the last with which the sole is to be used and simultaneously removing from the inner edge of said strip a portion the thickness of a shoe uppe and lining whereby saidstrip may be utilized as a welt for the shoe of which said sole is to constitute a part.

o. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in cementing together two like sole blanks so that the edges are flush, removing from one blank, a continuous marginal strip of a width to leave the edge of said blank substantially flush the last with which the sole is to be used and simultaneously removing from the inner edge otsaid strip a portion of substantially the thickness of a shoe upper and lining, placing said sole and the shoe upper upon the last, turning out the lower margin of said upper and securplacing said strip upon said margin and then uniting the strip, upper and sole.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

Al-)AM I'l PRENZEL.

Witnesses (T. F. S'rmiz, I1. liYAN. 

